Land of Many Waters

May 26

Happy Guyanese Independence Day!

Today marks the 59th anniversary of my mother’s homeland attaining political independence from Great Britain. On this historic day in 1966, a new nation—Guyana, the only English-speaking country on the South American continent—achieved sovereignty and became the 24th member of the then British Commonwealth of Nations, officially ending decades of British colonial rule.

Though I have not yet had the privilege of visiting this beautiful country, I have been deeply shaped by its love, values, and creations. Guyana has molded me into the person I am today. I was raised within the culture my family carried with them across the waters to America, and I’m endlessly grateful for that. Alongside the food, traditions, and music, I’ve spent years studying its history and listening to stories passed down from my mother and grandmother about their lives back home. I’ve dreamed of this place that makes up half of who I am. I wear this pride in my heart and on my sleeve.

The Melting Pot That Arrived Across Many Waters

Guyana is a stunning and culturally rich South American nation, shaped by a diverse mix of ethnic groups, including:

Indo-Guyanese (East Indian descent)
Afro-Guyanese (African descent)
Amerindian (Indigenous peoples)
Chinese
Portuguese

Indo-Guyanese people, descendants of indentured laborers brought from India in the 19th century, make up about 40% of the population. Afro-Guyanese, descended from enslaved Africans brought by British colonizers, account for around 30%. While their histories are marked by pain and displacement, both communities have built lives side by side for generations.

Smaller populations of Chinese and Portuguese descendants, along with those of mixed heritage, contribute to the country’s vibrant cultural mosaic. However, this diversity has not come without conflict—centuries of colonialism and displacement have left deep social divides, including internalized racism. Still, there have been growing efforts in recent years to bridge these divides and celebrate a shared national identity.

Unearthing the History

Guyana’s story is both complicated and captivating. Though it is the third smallest country in South America—bordered by Brazil, Venezuela, and Suriname—it is culturally and politically aligned with the Caribbean. Guyana is a proud member of several international organizations, including:

The United Nations
Caribbean Community (CARICOM)
The Commonwealth of Nations
The Non-Aligned Movement

The Spoken Tongue

English is Guyana’s official language and is used in education, government, media, and public life. However, most Guyanese speak Guyanese Creole (also called patois) as their first language—an English-based creole with African, Indian, and Amerindian influences. It’s a language rich in rhythm, warmth, and expression.

Cultural Expressions

A huge part of Guyanese culture is food. It’s a pillar within our traditions—bringing families and communities together. While I can’t name every dish, here are a few of my personal favorites:

Pepperpot
This beloved national dish has deep roots in Amerindian traditions. It’s slow-cooked meat—typically beef or pork—flavored with cassareep (a dark, rich sauce made from cassava), hot peppers, cloves, cinnamon, and herbs. It’s especially cherished during Christmas and other special occasions, passed down through generations and made with patience and love.
Dhal Puri and Roti
These staples trace back to Indian indentured laborers. Over time, Guyanese cooks made them their own—blending Indian tradition with Caribbean flavors. I personally love to eat dhal puri with chicken curry or pepperpot!
Cook-up Rice
A traditional New Year’s dish made with black-eyed peas and rice. It’s believed that starting the year with a pot of cook-up ensures that food will never run out in your home. This meal is not just delicious—it’s filled with intention, memory, and hope.

Beyond food, Guyanese culture is expressed through music. From chutney and calypso to reggae, these genres reflect joy, identity, protest, and resistance. They tell our stories and keep our spirits alive.

Independence Architects: The Leaders Who Shaped a Nation

1763 Monument on Square of the Revolution in Georgetown, Guyana, designed by Guyanese artist Philip Moore

Cuffy (Kofi Badu) – The Hero of the Republic

Growing up my mother often shared stories of this very monument of Cuffy. He is also known by his Akan name Kofi Badu. Cuffy was an enslaved African of Akan origin who became a national hero in Guyana for leading the 1763 Berbice Slave Rebellion against Dutch colonial rule. Born in what is now Ghana, Cuffy was brought to the Dutch colony of Berbice (present-day Guyana) and enslaved on Plantation Lilienburg along the Canje River.

On February 23, 1763, Cuffy led a revolt of over 2,500 enslaved Africans, successfully overtaking several plantations and establishing control over parts of the colony. He declared himself “Governor of Berbice” and sought to negotiate a division of the colony with the Dutch, proposing that Europeans remain on the coast while Africans control the interior. Despite initial successes, internal conflicts and a lack of resources led to the rebellion’s collapse, and Cuffy is believed to have died by suicide in 1763.

Cuffy’s legacy endures in Guyana, where he is commemorated as a symbol of resistance and freedom. The 1763 Monument in Georgetown honors his leadership, and February 23 is celebrated as Republic Day in his memory.

Guyana’s journey to independence wasn’t spontaneous—it was fought for, organized, and envisioned by powerful political minds who believed in the country’s right to self-determination. Among them, two figures stand out as foundational architects of Guyanese nationhood: Dr. Cheddi Jagan and Forbes Burnham. Though politically opposed in later years, their roles were deeply intertwined in shaping modern Guyana.

Dr. Cheddi Jagan: The Father of the Nation

Often referred to as the “Father of the Nation,” Dr. Cheddi Jagan was a pivotal force in Guyana’s fight for independence. Born in 1918 to Indo-Guyanese parents who were descendants of indentured laborers, Jagan rose from humble beginnings to study dentistry in the U.S., where he was exposed to socialist and anti-colonial ideas. This education would shape his political vision for decades to come.

In 1950, he co-founded the People’s Progressive Party (PPP)—a multiracial party committed to workers’ rights, national unity, and ending colonial rule. He became British Guiana’s first elected Chief Minister in 1953, but his administration was swiftly suspended by the British over fears of communist influence. Despite setbacks, he remained steadfast in advocating for economic justice, democratic governance, and sovereignty.

Cheddi Jagan’s political ideology leaned toward democratic socialism, and he spent his life challenging the structures of colonialism and capitalism that had impoverished Guyanese people. He eventually became President in 1992—the first democratically elected leader after decades of political turmoil—symbolizing both endurance and vindication. His presidency focused on rebuilding Guyana through education, transparency, and equitable development until his death in 1997.

“We must not only free our country from foreign domination, but also our minds from fear and submission.”

— Cheddi Jagan

Forbes Burnham: The Nation Builder

On the other side of the political spectrum was Forbes Burnham, a dominant figure in post-independence Guyana. Born in 1923 to Afro-Guyanese parents, Burnham was a lawyer, orator, and co-founder of the PPP alongside Jagan. However, ideological and strategic differences led to a split, and Burnham went on to establish the People’s National Congress (PNC), which became his political home for the rest of his career.

Burnham’s leadership marked a turning point in Guyanese politics. He served as Prime Minister from 1964 and later as Executive President until his death in 1985. Under his rule, Guyana officially became a Co-operative Republic in 1970, removing the British monarch as head of state and replacing the Governor-General with a President.

He promoted nationalization of industries, self-reliance, and a strong Afro-centric national identity, but his era was also marked by allegations of electoral manipulation, political suppression, and economic decline. Still, many remember Burnham for his bold vision of a unified, independent, and self-sufficient Guyana—pushing for Guyanese to speak Patois proudly, dress in local fabrics, and embrace their national culture.

“We are no longer the property of a foreign crown. We are the proud architects of our own future.”

— Forbes Burnham

Diaspora Pride

As a first-generation Guyanese-American, I’m always finding ways to keep my heritage alive—whether through my art practice or the small rituals of daily life. I was raised in what I feel was a very traditional Guyanese upbringing: immersed in the culture, learning directly from my elders.

One of my most cherished memories is receiving my first gold bangles from Guyana, gifted by my grandmother. These aren’t just accessories—they’re symbols of lineage and pride. A Guyanese gold bangle is a connection to the past, a marker of identity, and a tradition I will carry forward for generations to come.

Gold has long played a vital role in Guyana’s history and economy. For centuries, gold has drawn explorers, settlers, and fortune-seekers to its rivers and interior regions. Today, gold mining remains one of Guyana’s largest industries, contributing significantly to its GDP and exports. While it symbolizes prosperity and resilience, it also raises important questions about sustainability, Indigenous land rights, and environmental impact. Still, for many of us, gold—like the bangles worn by generations—is a symbol of beauty, strength, and cultural heritage.

As I grow older, I find myself asking more questions and listening more closely. I want to understand why we do the things we do—to preserve them with intention and pass them on with the same love it was taught to me.

Environmental Beauty: A Lush Treasure of the Earth

Guyana is a jewel of natural wonder—one of the most untouched and ecologically rich countries on Earth. Though small in size, its environmental impact is immense, and its landscapes feel almost mythical in their beauty.

Kaieteur Falls: The Crown Jewel

At the heart of Guyana’s environmental splendor is Kaieteur Falls—one of the world’s most powerful waterfalls. Located in the Potaro-Siparuni region, Kaieteur plunges 741 feet—nearly five times the height of Niagara Falls. Surrounded by dense rainforest, it’s a sacred site and a symbol of the country’s raw, majestic power. The thunder of the falls echoes through untouched wilderness, embodying both strength and serenity.

The Rainforests: Earth’s Lungs

Over 85% of Guyana’s landmass is covered by forest, much of it pristine and undisturbed. These forests are part of the Amazon biome, teeming with biodiversity—from jaguars and giant river otters to blue morpho butterflies and red howler monkeys. These ancient trees store immense amounts of carbon, making Guyana a critical ally in the global fight against climate change.

Guyana’s forests aren’t just a wonder to look at—they’re living systems that sustain the planet. The country is internationally recognized for its Low Carbon Development Strategy, which positions Guyana as a global model for balancing environmental stewardship with economic development. Through partnerships with international conservation programs, Guyana is working to preserve its ecosystems while still supporting the livelihood of its people.

Rivers, Wetlands, and Wildlife

Guyana is also known as the “Land of Many Waters”—a nod to its intricate network of rivers and wetlands. The Essequibo River, Guyana’s largest, flows majestically through the country, shaping its geography and nourishing its people.

These waters support rich mangrove ecosystems and are home to rare and endangered species like the Harpy Eagle, black caiman, and the giant anteater. Birdwatchers and ecotourists travel from around the world to witness Guyana’s remarkable wildlife and untouched habitats.

Indigenous Stewardship

Much of this land is protected thanks to the Indigenous peoples of Guyana—especially the nine Amerindian nations—who have lived in harmony with the land for thousands of years. Their traditional ecological knowledge and spiritual connection to the land are central to conservation efforts, reminding us that environmental protection is not just science—it’s culture, identity, and legacy.

Guyana’s environmental beauty is not just a visual experience—it’s a sacred inheritance. As we celebrate its independence, we must also honor its landscapes: the rainforest canopy that whispers ancient stories, the thunder of Kaieteur Falls, the rivers that pulse like veins through the land, and the people who have guarded it for generations.

This is a country where nature still leads—and we should listen.

As I reflect on Guyana’s independence today, I’m reminded of the strength, complexity, and beauty of my lineage. This land—though I’ve never set foot on it—lives deeply within me. Its fight for freedom, its cultural richness, and its resilience shape the lens through which I see the world.

Happy Independence Day to all my fellow Guyanese—at home and across the diaspora.

Thank you all for reading.

Until next time.

With much love,

Ryan Cosbert